
By Tom Kollenborn (c) 1995
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The Apache Trail's famous Circle Route
begins and ends in Apache Junction, Arizona. This 120
mile scenic route will take you through deserts, mountains,
by cliff dwellings, along lake shores, through old mining
towns and through beautifully eroded canyons. This popular
route has been used by tourists since 1922.
The State of Arizona, under the leadership
of Governor George P. Hunt in 1919, decided to build
a transportation link between Phoenix and the cities
of Globe and Miami. Governor Hunt wanted to open the
Globe and Miami copper industry to the Phoenix market.
The only road in 1919 linking these two important economic
centers was the Mesa-Roosevelt Road (Apache Trail) or
the long rail route through Tucson, Bowie and Safford.
The Apache Trail was not an efficient roadway for moving
goods from place to place. The roadway originally was
built as a haul and service road for the construction
and maintenance of Roosevelt Dam. For the most part the
Apache Trail was a single lane road with occasional pull
outs; however the roadway fascinated tourists who visited
the area. In 1919, there were several stations along
the Apache Trail. There was Government Well, Mormon Flat,
Tortilla Flat, Fish Creek Lodge and Snell's Station between
Mesa and Roosevelt Dam. The completion of the Phoenix-Globe
Highway through Superior in May of 1922 completed the
famous Circle Route that allowed drivers of automobiles
to circumnavigate the entire Superstition Wilderness
Area, an almost roadless region.
Lets take a trip over this famous route.
Starting in Apache Junction, drive northeast along State
Route 88 (Apache Trail) for about four miles and you
will come to Mining Camp Road on your right. Drive one
miles up this road and you will arrive at the Mining
Camp Restaurant established in 1961. This popular restaurant
has been a landmark for the past thirty-five years in
the Apache Junction area. On the left-hand side of the "Trail" just
beyond the Mining Camp Road turn-off you will find Goldfield
Ghost Town Tours, Inc. This modern re-creation of Goldfield
has a mine tour, train ride, a museum and many specialty
shops. Here at Goldfield you will find Apache Trail Tours & Superstition
Mountain Adventures. They offer spectacular Jeep, Hiking
and Helicopter tours throughout the Apache Trail and
Superstition Mountain area. As you continue up the Apache
Trail you will see the Bluebird Mine Curio Shop on the
right side of the roadway. This curio shop and pop stand
has been operated continually since 1948, when "Red" Monigan
first opened it. Both Goldfield and the Bluebird are
located in the Superstition Mountain Mining District.
A hundred years ago this was a booming gold mining town
on the desert twenty-three miles east of Mesa. The Mammoth
Mine produced about three million dollars in gold bullion
over a four year period 1892-1896.
A short distance up the road on the
right-hand side is located the entrance to Lost Dutchman
State Park. This park was established in 1967 because
of the popularity of Superstition Mountain. This giant
monolith towers some three thousand feet with its cliffs
and spires above the Lost Dutchman State Park. The state
park provides fee camping and there are miles of beautiful
hiking trails.
Immediately after leaving Lost Dutchman
State Park you enter Tonto National Forest. You will
notice the absence of billboard and advertising signs.
No commercial signing is permitted along the historic
and scenic Apache Trail for the next forty miles. The
Apache Trail was designated Arizona's first historic
and scenic highway in 1988.
About two and half miles down the road
from Lost Dutchman State Park is located the site of
Government Well. This site was an important stage stop
in the early days (1903-1915) for teamsters and their
teams when traveling the Mesa-Roosevelt Road (Apache
Trail) during and immediately after the construction
of Roosevelt Dam (1906-1911). The first automobile to
travel the Apache Trail was on August 25, 1905. This
car was a Knox Automobile built in Springfield, Mass.
The car would carry seven passengers and it had a 20
horse power gasoline engine to power it.
The drive from Lost Dutchman State Park
to Canyon Lake is eleven miles over good asphalt roads.
The volcanic rock formations along the roadway are spectacular.
Most of the rocks were formed during the Tertiary Period
of geologic time about twenty-nine million years ago.
This is the case for most rocks in the western portion
of the Superstition Wilderness Area. Most of the rocks
are composed of volcanic ash and basalt. From Apache
Junction to Government Well, a distance of seven miles,
the most famous mountain in Arizona looms on the eastern
horizon. Superstition Mountain rises approximately 3,000
feet above the desert floor. This mountain is the second
only to the Grand Canyon as the most photographed landmark
in Arizona.
Driving along the shores of Canyon Lake
(formed in 1925, after the completion of Mormon Flat
Dam) is a real contrast for the desert. The visitor seldom
expects to see such a large body of water in the middle
of the desert. At Canyon Lake you will find a restaurant,
marina and the "Dolly". Enjoy breakfast, lunch or dinner
at this beautiful lake side restaurant or take a cruise
on the "Dolly." Tourists have been visiting the beautiful
waters of Canyon Lake since October of 1925: first on
the S.S. Geronimo, today on the "Steamboat Dolly".
Our next stop, just two miles from Canyon Lake, is the famous stage stop of
Tortilla Flat. This stage stop was constructed in 1904 as a staging area for
the construction of the Mesa-Roosevelt Road from this point to the bottom of
Fish Creek Hill. Here you can enjoy food, drinks or just do a little shopping.
There are several interesting points
along the Apache Trail between Tortilla Flat and Apache
Lake. As you leave Tortilla Flat you will cross Tortilla
Creek. This creek drains a large portion of the Superstition
Wilderness Area. It is in this region that the alleged
Lost Dutchman Mine is supposed to be located. The next
creek bed you cross is Mesquite Creek. The pavement ends
about four and three tenths of a mile from Mesquite Creek.
The Arizona Department of Transportation has been experimenting
with some soil emulsions on portions of the road beyond
this point. About seven miles from Tortilla Flat you
will see a sign marked Fish Creek Hill. This is certainly
one of the most famous hills to automotive testing in
the Southwest. Since 1906 cars have been tested on Fish
Creek Hill because of its steep grade. The roadway going
down Fish Creek Hill has a ten percent grade. Today professional
filmmakers and photographers still use Fish Creek Hill
for their work.
After your descent of Fish Creek Hill,
about eight tenths of a mile from the Fish Creek Bridge
on the right side of the road is the sight of the old
Fish Creek Lodge that burned down January 6, 1929. You
will soon cross another bridge and then you will travel
along the course of Lewis and Pranty Creek until you
come to the Arizona State Highway Yard and the IV Ranch.
At the top of the divide you will see a sign on the right
side of the road directing you to the Reavis Ranch Trail
Head. It was 1910 when a group of Mesa entrepreneurs
thought they could promote the qualities of the Reavis
Ranch valley. This group of men started selling lots
in the upper end of the Reavis Valley and promised to
build a road to the site some ten miles from the Apache
Trail. They called their summer resort area Pineair.
A road wasn't built to the Reavis Valley until 1946.
This road was built to service a ranch and not a resort.
This ranch service road was closed in 1967. The Reavis
Valley's greatest claim to fame has to be the choosing
of the site for the first Roosevelt Council Boy Scouts'
Camp Geronimo in 1921. Arizona Governor Campbell also
visited Camp Geronimo.
Your next view will be a short distance
up the road. At this point you can see Apache Lake (formed
by Horse Mesa Dam), Four Peaks and Goat Mountain. Goat
Mountain is the bluffy looking mountain on the north
side of Apache Lake. Several years ago the Desert Bighorn
Sheep were re-established on this mountain. If you look
closely at the top of the ridges just below Four Peaks
you can see Ponderosa pine trees. When Apache Lake was
filled in 1927, it permanently closed portions of the
Apache Trail. The "Trail" was closed for six months until
a new road could be constructed. A tug boat and barge
were used temporarily to move traffic up and down Apache
Lake. Take a few minutes and drive down to the Apache
Lake Marina. You can rent boats and even take time for
lunch or supper at the restaurant. Fishing is great in
Apache Lake. The lake is known for its Small Mouth bass.
Some fourteen miles from Apache Lake
turn-off you can view the spectacular Roosevelt Dam.
At one time this was the largest masonry constructed
dam in the world. Construction began on the dam September
6, 1906 and the dam was dedicated by President Theodore
Roosevelt on March 10, 1911. The dam was refitted and
reconstructed between 1993-1995. The old dam was raised
seventy-seven feet. This new face-lift for Roosevelt
Dam has completely changed its appearance. Today the
dam looks like a modern structure, rather than the traditional
masonry facade one could view as they entered Horseshoe
Bend for the past eighty-three years.
Once you have arrived at the dam, you
are looking at Roosevelt Lake. This body of water is
the largest lake totally within the boundaries of Arizona.
There is great Large Mouth bass fishing here. On April
8, 1927, one month before Charles Lindbergh flew the
Atlantic Ocean, an Italian pilot and his crew landed
on Roosevelt Lake in a seaplane named the Santa Maria.
They had flown all the way from Italy across the Atlantic
Ocean. Commander Francesco de Pinedo had planned to circumnavigate
the globe in 1927, but tragedy struck at Roosevelt Lake.
A carelessly tossed cigarette ignited gasoline which
destroyed De Pinedo's aircraft at Hotel Point on Roosevelt
Lake.
Just up the road a short distance is
the turn-off to Tonto National Monument. This stop is
well worth your time. The national monument has an excellent
interpretive center on the ancient Salado Indians and
their culture. Even if you do not wish to visit the ruins
you should at least stop at the center.
It is about twenty-five miles from Tonto
National Monument to U.S. Highway 60 junction between
Globe and Miami. The scenery between Roosevelt Dam and
Highway 60 is typical upper Sonoran Desert. As you drive
along Pinal Creek you can witness a typical riparian
setting which includes large Cottonwood trees, Sycamore
trees and Arizona Willow trees. Among all this vegetation
are various types of residences.
As you drive westward along U.S. Highway
60 toward Miami you will see a towering bank of tailings
on your right side. These tailings are the results of
milling thousands and thousands of tons of copper ore
from copper mines in the area. Also you will notice a
towering black bank that is solid. This is slag from
the smelting process. This is the waste from processing
copper ore for more than eighty years in the area. When
the smelter was still operating it was quite a light
show when they dumped slag off of the dump at night.
You could see the light radiating from the molten slag
as it flowed down the almost vertical walls of the dump.
Miami is an interesting old mining town.
Many of the buildings date to about 1915. It is worth
turning around and driving east toward Globe (about four
miles) to visit the Clara Woody Museum (Gila County Museum)
on the right side of the highway between Miami and Globe.
As you drive westward on U.S. Highway
60 copper mining is evident all along the route. The
towering pine covered mountains on your left are the
Pinal Mountains. The highest mountain is Signal Peak,
7,812 feet above sea level. This peak was used by the
United States Army for a heliograph station during the
Indian wars.
Shortly after you cross the Pinto Creek
Bridge, on your left you can see the open pit work at
the Pinto Valley Mines. Eight miles west of Miami you
will arrive at a divide between Miami and Superior. This
area is known as the Pinal Ranch or sometimes it is called
the Top-of-the-World, which is actually incorrect. The
Top-of-the-World was a dance hall started in the 1920's
along the old highway east of the Pinal Ranch. This area
was settled by Robert A. Irion in 1878. His step-son
Dudly Craig continued the ranching tradition in the area
after Irion's death.
Leaving the Pinal Ranch area on U.S.
Highway 60 you soon descend into Devil's Canyon, a beautiful
region filled with rock formations that would please
anyone's imagination. As you emerge from Devil's Canyon
you will find Oak Flat Campgrounds on your left. This
road also leads to the Magma Nine Mine hoist. The shaft
below the Magma Nine Mine hoist is 4,000 feet deep.
The descent from Oak Flats through Queen
Creek Canyon is one of the most spectacular drives in
Arizona. It was here in Queen Creek Canyon that the highway
department had such a difficult time building a road.
As you drive down through the canyon carefully look for
portions of the old road.
Finally seven miles west of Pinal Ranch
you arrive in another old Arizona mining town: Superior,
Arizona. The mining history of the area dates back to
1875, when Aaron Mason discovered silver in the area.
The prospect he located turned out to be the fabulously
rich Silver King Mine, a mine that produced close to
fifteen million dollars in silver. Pinal City served
as the mill town for the Silver King Mine because it
was located along Queen Creek, a permanent source of
water. Today all that remains of Silver King and Pinal
City are a few grave markers and the wagon ruts cut in
stone by the ore wagons carrying silver ore to the mill.
The marker for the wagon tracks can be found about one
and a half miles west of Superior on the left side of
the road.
Two miles west of Superior is the world
famous Boyce Thompson Southwestern Arboretum. This botanical
garden exhibits arid land plants from all over the world.
It is certainly a worthwhile visit on the Apache Trail
Circle Route. The arboretum has one of the finest selections
of Arizona books on sale and they also sell certain types
of desert flora. From the arboretum along U.S. Highway
60 you are traveling through a typical Sonoran Desert
environment. The plant indicators for the Sonoran Desert
along this route are the Saguaro cactus, Teddy Bear cholla,
creosote, etc.
At Gonzales Pass, about nine miles west
of Superior, we will leave the Tonto National Forest.
As we descend Gonzales Pass keep an eye to the north
and you will see Weaver Needle in the distance. The needle
was named after Pauline Weaver, a prospector, guide and
mountain man. The landmark was named in 1853, because
it was such an important landmark along the Gila Route.
Once you are down on the desert floor
you will soon cross the tracks of the Arizona Magma Railroad.
This railroad was first constructed as a narrow gauge
railroad in 1915. This turned out not to be an efficient
method of hauling mill concentrates so in 1921 a standard
gauge railroad was constructed. The Arizona Magma Railroad
was the last railroad in the United States to use steam
engines on revenue runs. Arizona Magma ended all steam
engine revenue runs in 1965 except for emergency runs.
One of the Arizona Magma's old steam engines was used
in a spectacular Hollywood motion picture titled "How
The West Was Won."
At Florence Junction you might want
to stop and look around. The small business there does
sell soft drinks. J.W. Willoughby opened Florence Junction
for business on June 15, 1923.
From Florence Junction to Apache Junction
is sixteen miles. George C. Curtis opened Apache Junction
for business on February 2, 1923. Now is the time to
reminisce about your journey around the Apache Trail
Circle Route. You have now joined thousands that have
been making this trip since 1922. As you drive toward
Apache Junction, once again Superstition Mountain dominates
the eastern horizon and fills one's mind with tales of
lost gold mines, Native American history, prospectors
and cowboys.